Sardar (Sherpa)

A Sardar or Sirdar is a Sherpa mountain guide who manages all the other Sherpas in a climbing expedition or trekking group;[1] Sirdar is the most common spelling used in the majority of English-language mountaineering literature. The Sirdar is typically the most experienced guide and can usually speak English fluently. The Sirdar's responsibilities include:

  • assigning responsibilities to the other guides[1]
  • hiring and paying local porters[2]
  • purchasing local food during the trek/expedition[2]
  • making the final decision regarding route choices
  • handling other trip logistics such as dealing with government officials or police.
  • managing and overseeing transport of equipment to high camps[3]


The normal progression to Sirdar usually involves starting as a porter, working their way up to being a kitchen assistant, on to an assistant guide and then finally to Sirdar. Sirdars do not normally carry loads but will do so on occasion such as carrying the pack of a client who is having difficulties from altitude sickness. The appellation is sometimes qualified with expeditions having an overall Sirdar but with other individuals in subsidiary roles such as base-camp sirdar and ice-fall sirdar.[4][1]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c Stevens, Stanley F. (1993). Claiming the High Ground: Sherpas, Subsistence, and Environmental Change in the Highest Himalaya. University of California Press. p. 371-382. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  2. ^ a b Von Fürer-Haimendorf, Christoph (1975). Himalayan traders: life in highland Nepal. John Murray. ISBN 978-0719531798. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  3. ^ Viesturs, Ed; Roberts, David (2007). No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks. Bravo Ltd. p. 340. ISBN 9780767924719.
  4. ^ Krakauer, Jon (1997). Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster (1997 ed.). Doubleday. ISBN 978-0-385-49208-9