Rock Master is an international competition climbing event that is held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award.[1]

History

[edit]

In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event, a jury give out the "Arco Rock Legends", two awards that are considered the Oscars of climbing:[1]

  • Salewa Rock Award for the athlete with the best performance on single-pitch sport climbs and boulders.
  • La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.

Format

[edit]

The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

  • in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals, and finals.
  • in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011. The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and was attended by the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[2]

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[3]

Winners

[edit]

Lead

[edit]
Year Male Female
1987 Germany Stefan Glowacz United States Lynn Hill
1988 Germany Stefan Glowacz
France Patrick Edlinger
United States Lynn Hill
1989 France Didier Raboutou United States Lynn Hill
1990 France François Legrand United States Lynn Hill
1991 Japan Yuji Hirayama France Isabelle Patissier
1992 Germany Stefan Glowacz United States Lynn Hill
1993 Switzerland Elie Chevieux Switzerland Susi Good
1994 France François Legrand United States Robyn Erbesfield
1995 France François Lombard France Laurence Guyon
1996 France François Lombard United States Katie Brown
1997 France François Legrand United States Katie Brown
1998 France François Legrand France Liv Sansoz
1999 Russia Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Belgium Muriel Sarkany
2000 Russia Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Belgium Muriel Sarkany
2001 Germany Christian Bindhammer
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Japan Yuji Hirayama
Belgium Muriel Sarkany
Slovenia Martina Cufar
2002 France Alexandre Chabot France Sandrine Levet
2003 France Alexandre Chabot Austria Angela Eiter
2004 France Alexandre Chabot Austria Angela Eiter
2005 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2006 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque France Sandrine Levet
2007 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2008 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Austria Johanna Ernst
2009 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2010 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque South Korea Jain Kim
2011 - -
2012 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2013 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Slovenia Mina Markovič
2016 France Romain Desgranges Belgium Anak Verhoeven
2017 Austria Jakob Schubert South Korea Jain Kim
2018 Austria Jakob Schubert Slovenia Janja Garnbret

Bouldering

[edit]
Year Male Female
1999 Spain Daniel Andrada Russia Elena Choumilova
2000 Poland Tomasz Oleksy Russia Natalia Novikova
2001 Russia Salavat Rakhmetov France Corinne Théroux
2002 Italy Mauro Calibani Russia Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003 Italy Mauro Calibani Russia Olga Bibik
2004 Switzerland Matthias Müller France Mélanie Son
2005 Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Mélanie Son
2006 Finland Nalle Hukkataival Austria Anna Stöhr
2007 United Kingdom Gareth Parry Austria Anna Stöhr
2008 Austria Kilian Fischhuber Austria Katharina Saurwein
2009 Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Alizée Dufraisse
2010 Switzerland Cédric Lachat [de] Austria Anna Stöhr
2011 - -
2012 Russia Dmitrij Šarafutdinov United States Alex Puccio
2013 Russia Rustam Gelmanov United States Alex Puccio

Speed

[edit]
Year Male Female
1999 Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Russia Alexei Gadeev
2001 Russia Iakov Soubotine
2002 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Russia Alexei Gadeev
2004 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2006 Russia Sergey Sinitsyn
2007 Russia Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008 Venezuela Manuel Escobar UkraineOlena Ryepko
2009 Czech Republic Libor Hroza Poland Edyta Ropek
2010 Czech Republic Libor Hroza China Cuilian He
2011 - -
2012 Italy Leonardo Gontero Russia Alina Gaydamakina
2013 Czech Republic Libor Hroza Russia Alina Gaydamakina
2014 Czech Republic Libor Hroza France Anouck Jaubert
2018 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Iuliia Kaplina

Duel

[edit]
Year Male Female
2011 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Russia Yana Chereshneva
2012 Austria Jakob Schubert Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013 Canada Sean McColl Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2014 Canada Sean McColl Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2015 Czech Republic Adam Ondra France Hélène Janicot
2016 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Janja Garnbret
2017 Czech Republic Adam Ondra France Julia Chanourdie
2018 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Janja Garnbret
2019 Austria Jakob Schubert Slovenia Mia Krampl
2021 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Slovenia Mia Krampl
2022 Austria Jakob Schubert Austria Jessica Pilz
2023 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Janja Garnbret
2024 Italy Filip Schenk Austria Jessica Pilz
2025 Czech Republic Adam Ondra United States Brooke Raboutou

KO Boulder

[edit]
Year Male Female
2010 Switzerland Cedric Lachat Austria Anna Stöhr
2012 Russia Dmitrii Sharafutdinov United States Alex Puccio
2013 Russia Rustam Gelmanov United States Alex Puccio
2014 Slovenia Jernje Kruder United States Alex Puccio
2016 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria Katharina Saurwein
2017 South Korea Chon Jong-won United States Alex Puccio
2018 Russia Alexey Rubtsov France Fanny Gibert
2021 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Italy Laura Rogora
2022 Austria Jakob Schubert Austria Jessica Pilz
2023 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Janja Garnbret
2024 Germany Yannick Flohé Austria Jessica Pilz
2025 Germany Yannick Flohé Slovenia Janja Garnbret

Arco Rock Legends

[edit]
Year[1] Salewa Rock Award La Sportiva Competition Award
2006 Spain Josune Bereziartu Austria Angela Eiter
2007 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Austria David Lama
2008 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2009 United States Chris Sharma Austria Kilian Fischhuber
2010 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2011 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012 United States Sasha DiGiulian Austria Anna Stöhr
2013 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Mina Markovič
2014 Belgium Muriel Sarkany Spain Urko Carmona Barandiaran
2015 Germany Alexander Megos Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2016 Spain Daniel Andrada Slovenia Mina Markovič
2017 United States Margo Hayes Slovenia Janja Garnbret

Editions

[edit]

2018 (32nd)

[edit]

Lead Duel

[edit]

Joannes was leading McColl when he peeled off a crimp towards the finish. Shiraishi had been beaten by Garnbret, and her final lunge for the finish pad at 2:34 fell short. Women's jersey 6 was tied with Rogora but peeled off trying to navigate past the same crimp Joannes fell on, only for Rogora herself to undershoot the finish pad at 2:39. Chanourdie had been beaten by Pilz when she failed to stick the second to last hold at 2:32. Ruidigier was leading Ghisolfi when he peeled off the same crimp at 1:12. Koller slapped the pad ahead of Verhoeven at 1:33 but undershot.[4]

Men's Qualifications
[edit]
 
Race 1
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:42
 
 
Marcello Bombardi1:48
 
 
Race 2
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Jakob Schubert1:25.7
 
 
Adam Ondra1:24.6
 
 
Race 3
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Sean McColl1:43
 
 
Thomas JoannesDNF
 
 
Race 4
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Max Rudigier1:39
 
 
Alexander Megos1:44
 
 
Race 5
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Jan Hojer1:33
 
 
Domen Škofic1:50
 
Men's Finals
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Jul 29
 
 
Adam Ondra1:13
 
Jul 29
 
Marcello Bombardi1:27
 
Adam Ondra1:10
 
Jul 29
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:15
 
Max RudigierDNF
 
Jul 29
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:40
 
Adam Ondra103.19
 
Jul 29
 
Sean McColl103.22
 
Jakob Schubert1:21
 
Jul 29
 
Alexander Megos1:24
 
Jakob Schubert1:11
 
Jul 29
 
Sean McColl1:09 Third place
 
Jan Hojer1:17
 
Jul 29
 
Sean McColl1:15
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:09
 
 
Jakob Schubert1:06
 
Women's Qualifications
[edit]
 
Race 1
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Anne-Sophie Koller2:38
 
 
Anak Verhoeven2:24
 
 
Race 2
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Ashima ShiraishiDNF
 
 
Jessica Pilz2:04
 
 
Race 3
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
6DNF
 
 
Laura RogoraDNF
 
 
Race 4
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Janja Garnbret2:08
 
 
Mina Markovič3:04
 
 
Race 5
 
  
 
Jul 29
 
 
Molly Thompson-Smith2:05
 
 
Julia ChanourdieDNF
 
Women's Finals
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Jul 29
 
 
Jessica Pilz1:54
 
Jul 29
 
Ashima Shiraishi2:09
 
Jessica Pilz1:30
 
Jul 29
 
Anak Verhoeven1:36
 
Anak Verhoeven1:54
 
Jul 29
 
Anne-Sophie KollerDNF
 
Jessica Pilz1:18
 
Jul 29
 
Janja Garnbret1:11
 
Julia Chanourdie1:54
 
Jul 29
 
Laura Rogora2:13
 
Julia Chanourdie1:25
 
Jul 29
 
Janja Garnbret1:23 Third place
 
Janja Garnbret1:37
 
Jul 29
 
Mina Markovič2:39
 
Anak Verhoeven1:24.0
 
 
Julia Chanourdie1:24.4
 

KO Boulder

[edit]

The first problem's crux involved matching hands on a sloper and reaching left to the finish hold. In the first round on the first problem, Kruder dynoed the first move of the first problem. Rubtsov tried this on his second attempt and became the first to stick the crux sloper and top the problem. Vezonik tried it after Rubtsov, having been unable to progress to the crux on his initial static attempt, but was unable to stick the dyno, and the second time he stuck the crux sloper but could not advance, so he jokingly grabbed the top of the wall instead. Piazza was unable to secure himself on the holds below the crux, barn dooring off his third, dynamic, attempt, upon which he was eliminated.[5]

The second problem was more difficult. It's crux involved a series of three pinches, which none could stick on their first try. Hojer became the first to solve it, using a static heel hook technique, then progressing to the final hold but failing to match hands. Kruder solved it more dynamically right after him, but could not fully reach the second to last hold. Mawem and Piccolruaz were unable to progress to the crux, so they were eliminated.[5]

The third problem had a slab start with a lean far to the left, which Vezonik stuck on his first attempt, only to barn door trying to reach the next hold. Rubtsov succeeded in sticking the lean and reaching the next hold on his second attempt, but could not stick the crimp before the finish hold. Vezonik stuck the next hold on his second attempt, but fell off switching hands. After two attempts, Kruder was unable to stick the lean, while Hojer was unable to reach any handholds at all even after a third attempt, so Hojer was eliminated.[5]

The fourth problem was substantially easier for the remaining contestants than the previous problems. It had a crack start to an overhang and a climb to a sloper that required mantling the second to last hold to reach. On his first and only attempt, Kruder was able to touch, but not hold, the final hold. Then Rubtsov and Vezonik both onsighted the problem, eliminating Kruder.[5]

Men's
[edit]

2021 (34th)

[edit]

The men's and women's routes were of the same difficulty. Gibert had been beaten by Lukan when she lunged for a dyno, missing the finish pad at 2:04. Fossali had been beaten by Ondra when he peeled off the ceiling at 2:30. Stráník had been beaten by Piccolruaz when he peeled off lunging for the final hold at 1:22. Flohé had been beaten by Ghisolfi when he peeled off at 1:13, swinging for the final hold. Rogora was beaten by Lukan while on the last hold, but she peeled off. Flohé had been beaten by Ondra when he peeled off at 1:12, lunging for the final hold.[6]

Lead Duel

[edit]
Men's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Aug 27
 
 
Adam Ondra1:17
 
Aug 27
 
Ludovico FossaliDNF
 
Adam Ondra1:07.32
 
Aug 27
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:07.22
 
Martin StráníkDNF
 
Aug 27
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:20
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:10.1
 
Aug 27
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:09.0
 
Yannick Flohé1:22
 
Aug 27
 
Domen Škofic1:26
 
Yannick FlohéDNF
 
Aug 27
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:12 Third place
 
Filip Schenk1:27
 
Aug 27
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:18
 
Adam Ondra1:11
 
 
Yannick FlohéDNF
 
Women's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Aug 27
 
 
Laura Rogora1:51
 
Aug 27
 
Giorgia Tesio2:17
 
Laura Rogora1:34.2
 
Aug 27
 
Mia Krampl1:33.5
 
Mia Krampl1:40
 
Aug 27
 
Molly Thompson-Smith1:44
 
Mia Krampl1:24
 
Aug 27
 
Jessica Pilz1:30?
 
Vita Lukan1:56
 
Aug 27
 
Fanny GibertDNF
 
Vita Lukan1:33.8
 
Aug 27
 
Jessica Pilz1:32.4 Third place
 
Jessica Pilz1:46
 
Aug 27
 
Eliška Adamovská2:02
 
Laura RogoraDNF
 
 
Vita Lukan1:28
 

KO Boulder

[edit]

Climbers got three chances each to complete the boulder problem each round. Points were assigned after each round, taking into account the highest reached hold and the number of attempts. In case of a tie, the points of the previous rounds would decide who advances or wins.[7]

Men's
[edit]

The first problem moved from a sloper volume to two pinch volumes to two crimps to a final pinch before the finish hold. Škofic fell off right after gripping the starting hold, eliciting laughter from the crowd. Flohé got to the crimp pair right after him but could not advance on his first two attempt, topping the problem on his third. Ondra found a knee bar between the pinches and onsighted the problem. Stráník got as far as Flohé using a different sequence but encountered a similar issue on his first attempt, topping it on his second. Schenk reached the same point on his first attempt, but could not progress on his other attempts. Piccolruaz unsuccessfully attempted a dyno to the second hold, then could not pass the pinches on his next two attempts. After three attempts each, Ghisolfi and Fossali could not master the initial dyno. The same happened to Škofic on his second and third attempts. As that left three competitors tied for last, the judges decided to eliminate the bottom four competitors on the next boulder.[7]

The next problem involved a stepping dyno to press, followed by a crimp to a sloper volume, followed by a gaston volume to the finish crimp. Škofic reached, but could not stick, the dyno. Flohé stuck it but could not progress beyond the crimp on any attempt. Ondra reached the sloper volume in his first attempt but fell off matching hands, and on his two succeeding attempts in the following gaston. Ghisolfi, Stráník, Piccolruaz, Schenk, and Fossali all had difficulty securing themselves on the initial dyno. Ondra and Ghisolfi cleaned each others' holds. But of the climbers who could not begin the upward climb, only Stráník and Schenk stuck the dyno well enough to begin advancing, and only on their second and third attempt, respectively.[7]

The third was a body tension problem. Flohé and Schenk peeled off the first hold, Ondra and Stráník could not get into position for the reach at the third, and the only thing that changed with further attempts was Schenk reaching the second hold, Stráník getting close to reach position twice, and Ondra reaching out to touch the next hold on his final attempt. As a result, Flohé was eliminated.[7]

The fourth was an overhanging problem with a mantle to finish. Ondra onsighted the problem. Stráník and Schenk both came as far as the sidepull crimp before the finish hold on their first attempt. Neither could improve their progress after attempting to exhaustion.[7]

Women's
[edit]

The first problem was overhanging. Most onsighted it, but Lukan missed the final hold and Krampl could not stick it. Tesio could not stick the second to last hold, a pinch. Lukan, Krampl, and Tesio competed for the final remaining place, Lukan topping the route. But then Adamovská was forced to repeat the problem due to a starting technicality, and she peeled off at the pinch. Krampl topped the route, as did Tesio, but Tesio peeled off at the top. On her third try, Adamovská again could not stick the pinch, and Tesio could not match on the top.[8]

The second problem was a series of volumes, which Gibert onsighted. Pilz slipped off while on the third to last volume. Lukan onsighted it, reaching the top of the finishing hold. Rogora onsighted it, finishing in a no-hands kneebar. Krampl came off one hand ahead of Pilz and Thompson one hand behind her. On their second attempts, Pilz could struggled to match hands again, Krampl got as far as Thompson had, and Thompson again reached the same spot. On their third attempts, Pilz and Krampl topped the route, but Thompson could not. This left Thompson eliminated by the problem, and Krampl eliminated on "the sum of the results of the two boulders".[8]

The third problem was a slab. The initial dynamic move was first completed by Lukan, who onsighted it, followed by Rogora. This left a battle between Gibert and Pilz not to be eliminated. On their second attempt, Gibert and Pilz both completed the dyno, but fell off on the next move. On their third attempt, Gibert had the same difficulty, but Pilz only could not match hands on the final hold.[8]

The final problem involved a vertical press to a lie-back to a crimp to a sloper. All three remaining competitors onsighted it, so the competition's winner was decided on accumulated points, making Rogora the winner.[8]

2022 (35th)

[edit]

Rogora was leading Lukan when she fell off. Zhang was leading Moroni when she fell off. Stráník was trailing Schubert when he fell off. Schenk was trailing Piccolruaz when he fell off. Stráník and Schenk fell off the same sloper. Piccolruaz was trailing Schubert when he fell off.[9]

Lead Duel

[edit]
Men's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Jul 29
 
 
Jakob Schubert1:12
 
Jul 29
 
Luka Potočar1:26
 
Jakob Schubert1:04
 
Jul 29
 
Martin StráníkDNF
 
Martin Stráník1:18
 
Jul 29
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:23
 
Jakob Schubert1:01
 
Jul 29
 
Michael PiccolruazDNF
 
Filip Schenk1:23
 
Jul 29
 
Nicolai Užnik1:34
 
Filip SchenkDNF
 
Jul 29
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:17 Third place
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:30
 
Jul 29
 
Fedir Samoilov1:41
 
Martin Stráník1:13.8
 
 
Filip Schenk1:12.6
 
Women's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Jul 29
 
 
Seo Chae-hyun1:47
 
Jul 29
 
Staša Gejo2:34
 
Seo Chae-hyun1:27.9
 
Jul 29
 
Jessica Pilz1:27.2
 
Jessica Pilz1:34
 
Jul 29
 
Jenya Kazbekova1:38
 
Jessica Pilz1:25.3
 
Jul 29
 
Vita Lukan1:25.7
 
Vita Lukan1:45
 
Jul 29
 
Laura RogoraDNF
 
Vita Lukan1:49
 
Jul 29
 
Camilla Moroni1:54
 
Zhang YuetongDNF
 
 
Camilla Moroni2:34
 

2023 (36th)

[edit]

Lead Duel

[edit]

The women's route was graded 8a, the men's 8b, but as usual the use of both route's holds was allowed, so long as the correct line was clipped. The two routes merged at the ceiling. Both the duel between Grupper and Scherz and that between Schubert and Piccolruaz had to be restarted because of false starts.[10]

Men's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Sep 1
 
 
Adam Ondra1:15
 
Sep 1
 
Toby Roberts1:55
 
Adam Ondra1:08
 
Sep 1
 
Jesse Grupper1:25
 
Jesse Grupper1:28.0
 
Sep 1
 
Stefan Scherz1:29.3
 
Adam Ondra1:01.1
 
Sep 1
 
Jakob Schubert1:04.0
 
Jakob Schubert1:16
 
Sep 1
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:33
 
Jakob Schubert1:08
 
Sep 1
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:15
 
Michael Piccolruaz1:24
 
 
Taisei Homma1:35
 
Women's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Sep 1
 
 
Janja Garnbret1:43
 
Sep 1
 
Natsuki Tanii2:21
 
Janja Garnbret1:26
 
Sep 1
 
Hanna Meul1:52
 
Hanna Meul1:39.9
 
Sep 1
 
Laura Rogora1:40.1
 
Janja Garnbret1:10
 
Sep 1
 
Brooke Raboutou?
 
Jessica Pilz1:39
 
Sep 1
 
Camilla Moroni1:54
 
Jessica Pilz1:25
 
Sep 1
 
Brooke Raboutou1:23
 
Brooke Raboutou1:36
 
 
Vita Lukan1:50
 

2024 (37th)

[edit]

The use of both route's holds was allowed, so long as the correct line was clipped. The two routes merged at the ceiling. Piccolruaz false started, so Schenk advanced automatically. Pötzi was leading Rogora when she fell off. Posch was trailing Potočar when he fell off. Ondra nearly beat Van Duysen with a time of 1:04, only for his final dyno to fall short of the finish pad.[11]

Lead Duel

[edit]
Men's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Sep 18
 
 
Filip Schenk0:00
 
Sep 18
 
Michael PiccolruazDSQ
 
Filip Schenk1:13
 
Sep 18
 
Luka Potočar1:18
 
Luka Potočar1:34
 
Sep 18
 
Jan-Luca PoschDNF
 
Filip Schenk1:10
 
Sep 18
 
Hannes Van Duysen1:16
 
Yannick Flohé1:23
 
Sep 18
 
Stefano Ghisolfi1:32
 
Yannick Flohé1:11
 
Sep 18
 
Hannes Van Duysen1:07
 
Hannes Van Duysen1:22
 
 
Adam OndraDNF
 
Women's
[edit]
 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Sep 18
 
 
Jessica Pilz1:17
 
Sep 18
 
Oceana Mackenzie1:24
 
Jessica Pilz1:23
 
Sep 18
 
Camilla Moroni1:38
 
Camilla Moroni1:41
 
Sep 18
 
Lucia Dörffel1:45
 
Jessica Pilz1:14.6
 
Sep 18
 
Sara Čopar1:15.8
 
Sara Čopar1:29
 
Sep 18
 
Vita Lukan1:39
 
Sara Čopar1:20
 
Sep 18
 
Laura Rogora1:34
 
Mattea PötziDNF
 
 
Laura Rogora1:??
 

KO Boulder

[edit]
Men's
[edit]

The first problem's crux was a dyno to gaston. Flohé onsighted it, while the remaining climbers successively could not stick the crux until Piccolruaz, whose foot slipped just before the final move; then Ondra onsighted it, adding second dyno to the finish hold. On their second attempts, Posch and Van Duysen topped the route, Piccolruaz matched hands on the final could but could not stick it, Schenk could not reach the final hold, Potočar still could not stick the crux, and Ghisolfi peeled off an early sidepull. On their final attempt, Schenk topped it, Ghisolfi and Potočar still could not stick the crux.[12]

The second problem's crux involved compression moves between four volumes. On their first attempts, Flohé, Van Duysen topped the problem, Posch and Piccolruaz struggled with the crux, and Schenk and Ondra struggled to reach the crux. This slated Schenk and Ondra for elimination. On their second attempts, Posch reached the final hold but slipped off, Piccolruaz improved by one move, and Schenk and Ondra failed to improve. On their final attempts, Schenk again came off before reaching the crux and Piccolruaz (who had previously made it further) came off at the same hold, but this time, Ondra progressed to the top. So Schenk and Piccolruaz were eliminated.[12]

The third problem's crux was a three link slab, which was followed by a dyno to the top from crimps. Flohé struggled the most and Ondra the least, but all failed to secure themselves on the same hold. On their second attempts, Flohé caught up, Posch fell off early, as did Van Duysen due to a foot slip, and though Ondra got "closer and closer" to holding the target hold, no scorable progress was made. On their final attempts, none of the competitors could improve except Ondra, who progressed through the crux to match hands on the final hold, only to slip. As a three way tie, previous problems were used to eliminate Posch.[12]

The final problem involved campusing sequences. Flohé onsighted it, Van Duysen could not stick the second to last hold, and Ondra peeled off the second hold, so Flohé won. On their second attempts, Van Duysen topped it on his final attempt, but Ondra slipped off a reach to the upper campus series.[12]

Women's
[edit]

The first boulder involved a step dyno, followed by a sidepull into a gaston. After the failure of Pötzi to stick the dyno, Lukan and Mackenzie reached gaston position on the finish hold but could not match hands. Pilz, Rogora, and Moroni then succeeded in matching hands. Dörffel had the same issue with the gaston as Lukan and Mackenzie, but Čopar also onsighted the problem. This set Pötzi up for elimination, but since Pötzi matched hands at the finish on her second attempt, Lukan, Mackenzie, and Dörffel competed to remain in the competition. Lukan's right foot slipped before she could reach for the finish hold, and Mackenzie and Dörffel again failed to match hands. On the third round of attempts, Lukan and Mackenzie continued to struggle at the gaston, but Dörffel topped the route, eliminating Lukan and Mackenzie.[12]

The second problem involved navigating below a large hexagonal volume in press position, then climbing up to a mantle on top of the volume. Pötzi had difficulty with the start, Pilz onsighted it, Rogora lacked the strength to complete the mantle. Moroni and Čopar was stuck on the same move as Pötzi, but Dörffel onsighted it. On their second attempts, Pötzi and Moroni could only reach the undercling below the hexagon, while Rogora and Čopar could not improve their previous progressions. This set at least Čopar for elimination. None of the competitors could improve on their third attempts, with Rogora peeling off the start hold due to the slip of a foot and Moroni coming one move short of her furthest point. The judges decided Pötzi would join Čopar in elimination.[12]

The third problem moved from an undercling sidepull series with toehooks through a sidepull and crimps to a gaston to finish. Pilz could not latch on to the crimp before peeling. Rogora came off on the same hold, with a reach issue. Moroni reached the gaston on her first attempt. Dörffel struggled with the starting series, slating her for elimination. On their second attempts, Pilz could not improve, Rogora fell off where Dörffel did, Moroni even lower on the starting series, whereas Dörffel was able reach Pilz and Rogora's high point. On their final attempts, Pilz obtained a stronger latch on one, but not both, of the crimps, placing her ahead of Rogora and Dörffel. Rogora failed to improve, while Moroni and Dörffel came off at the modal peel point. The judges eliminated Dörffel over Rogora.[12]

The final problem was sloper heavy, involving a swinging stepping dyno to the largest sloper. On their first attempts, Rogora could not stick the first sloper, whereas Pilz and Moroni had difficulty sticking the dyno. None progressed further on their second attempt, and on their third, Rogora could not pass the first sloper, while Moroni reached the next hold during the dyno, but could not stick either the big sloper or that hold. The judges decided to split the tie by the results of the previous problems.[12]

2025 (38th)

[edit]

Lead Duel

[edit]

The route was 16 metres (52 ft) tall, with a 12 metres (39 ft) overhang, consisting of 42 holds for an overall difficulty of 8b.[13]

Men's
[edit]

After a close battle, Van Duysen touched the finish pad with his foot.[13]

 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Oct 19
 
 
Czech Republic Adam Ondra1:19
 
Oct 19
 
Italy Giovanni Placci1:37
 
Czech Republic Adam Ondra1:14
 
Oct 19
 
United Kingdom William Bosi1:29
 
United Kingdom William Bosi1:25
 
Oct 19
 
Austria Stefan Scherz1:38
 
Czech Republic Adam Ondra1:04.7
 
Oct 19
 
Italy Filip Schenk1:06.6
 
Belgium Hannes Van Duysen1:25
 
Oct 19
 
Italy Filip Schenk:1:19
 
Italy Filip Schenk1:11
 
Oct 19
 
Germany Yannick Flohé1:16 Third place
 
Germany Yannick Flohé1:18
 
Oct 19
 
Italy Stefano Ghisolfi1:26
 
Germany Yannick Flohé1:16.7
 
 
United Kingdom William Bosi1:17.6
 
Women's
[edit]

Doumont and Pötzi were trailing Apel and Rogora when they fell.[13]

 
Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
 
          
 
Oct 19
 
 
United States Brooke Raboutou1:10
 
Oct 19
 
Slovenia Janja Garnbret1:??
 
United States Brooke Raboutou1:22
 
Oct 19
 
Germany Anna Maria Apel1:49
 
Germany Anna Maria Apel1:50
 
Oct 19
 
Belgium Heloïse DoumontDNF
 
United States Brooke Raboutou1:14
 
Oct 19
 
Austria Jessica Pilz1:21
 
Austria Jessica Pilz1:42
 
Oct 19
 
Japan Mei Kotake1:52
 
Austria Jessica Pilz1:26
 
Oct 19
 
Italy Laura Rogora1:36 Third place
 
Italy Laura Rogora1:48
 
Oct 19
 
Austria Mattea PötziDNF
 
Germany Anna Maria Apel1:26
 
 
Italy Laura Rogora1:30
 

KO Boulder

[edit]
Men's
[edit]

The first problem was a long compression series. Will Bosi went first, slipping on the textureless starting ledge while in an early gaston. He was followed by Schenk, who slipped matching hands on the same hold. Flohé was able to pass the slippery initial foothold with a more dynamic solution but peeled off the third to last hold after his heel slipped. With the accumulated beta, Van Duysen and Ondra were able to onsight the problem. But Ghisolfi and Placci tried the earlier, static sequence, both slipping off, while Scherz, Bosi, and Schenk could not adapt to the dynamic solution. On his second attempt, Ghisolfi surprised the crowd with a static solution to the starting sequence but did not progress as far as Flohé, unlike Scherz. Placci followed Ghisolfi in the static solution but came off close to where Flohé reached. On his final attempt, Bosi could not improve, leaving him eliminated. Schenk succeeded with the static method and topped the problem. Flohé and Ghisolfi also topped the problem, but Scherz fell off on the final gaston, slating him for elimination along with Bosi unless Placci could not climb further. As Placci fell off the first move, Scherz went through.[14]

The second problem had a double undercling start to a long sloper series involving a stepping dyno. Schenk went first, with incomplete progression to the second to last sloper. Flohé and Van Duysen onsighted the problem. Ondra and Ghisolfi could not stick the dyno. Scherz had the same issue as Schenk. On his second attempt, Schenk could not stick the dyno, but Ondra did and progressed to the same high point as Schenk and Scherz. Ghisolfi again could not stick the dyno, slating him for elimination if he could not improve. On their third attempts, all remaining climbers failed to improve their high points. Ondra was also eliminated, on points.[14]

The third problem was a slab, Schenk and Flohé had difficulty completing a step-through to lean sequence, while Van Duysen and Scherz slipped off the beginning. On their second attempts, only Scherz improved, reaching as far as Flohé. On their third attempt, Schenk failed to improve, but Flohé increased his stability on the second to last hold of the bottom sequence, which Van Duysen progressed through to reach the top. Scherz also failed to improve, which eliminated him.[14]

The fourth problem was overhanging. Schenk fell on an early twisting campus move. Flohé onsighted the problem. Van Duysen got further than Schenk but could not pinch the top of the large volume. On their second attempts, Schenk failed to stick the twist, while Van Duysen did not progress much, so Flohé won. On their final attempts, Schenk fell off at the start and Van Duysen reached the same point as his previous attempt.[14]

Women's
[edit]

The first proved exceptionally easy. It became difficult at a pinch problem, followed by drop knee to a crimp, then consecutive slopers. Pötzi went first, peeling off the first sloper. The remaining competitors flashed the problem except Kotake, who could not complete the pinch section. With that, Pötzi and Kotake were eliminated. On her second attempt, Pötzi could not stick the final sloper, while Kotake completed the problem. Pötzi completed it on her third try.[14]

The second problem involved a reachy to dynamic series followed by a sloper series. Raboutou went first, flashing it, as did Pilz and Garnbret. Apel failed to stick the dyno, Rogora failed on the final move, and Doumont slipped off the first hold. On her second go, Apel topped the problem, but Rogora fell repeating her static solution to the reachy section, and Doumont failed to stick the dyno. So Rogora and Doumont were eliminated. On their final attempts, Rogora and Doumont fell off at the same point as their second attempts.[14]

The third problem was a slab whose crux came at the end with a pistol squat followed by a right reach. Raboutou touched but could not stick the final hold. Pilz lost her balance on the lean to reach the crux. Apel and Garnbret flashed the problem, leaving Raboutou and Pilz to battle for progression. On her second attempt, Raboutou topped the problem, but Pilz slipped off one hold before her previous high point and was eliminated.[14]

The final problem was significantly overhanging. Raboutou and Apel both struggled on the first peel-off, which Garnbret passed with ease, onsighting the problem and winning the tournament. In the battle for second, Raboutou got to the second to last hold but could not progress further on her final attempt, whereas Apel could not progress initially but reached the third to last hold on her final attempt.[14]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c "Arco Rock Legends 2017: Six Nominations for Sport Oscar". Gripped.com. 25 August 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  2. ^ Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  3. ^ "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  4. ^ Rock Master Festival (31 July 2018). "Rock Master Duel". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  5. ^ a b c d Rock Master Festival (31 July 2018). "KO Boulder Contest Men - Rock Master Festival 2018". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  6. ^ Rock Master Festival (27 August 2021). "Rock Master 2021 - Lead Duel". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  7. ^ a b c d e Rock Master Festival (27 August 2021). "Rock Master 2021 - KO Boulder Men Contest". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  8. ^ a b c d Rock Master Festival (27 August 2021). "Rock Master 2021 - KO Boulder Women Contest". YouTube. Retrieved 31 October 2025.
  9. ^ Rock Master Festival (29 July 2022). "Rock Master 2022: Lead Duel". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  10. ^ Rock Master Festival (1 September 2023). "Rock Master 2023: Duel Finals". YouTube. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  11. ^ Ploner, Silvano; Zardini, Luca (13 April 2025). "Rock Master Duel, Lead, Arco, 2024". YouTube. Rai Sport. Retrieved 4 September 2025.
  12. ^ a b c d e f g h Rock Master Festival (18 September 2024). "Rock Master 2024: KO Boulder". YouTube. Retrieved 5 September 2025.
  13. ^ a b c "Rock Master 2025: Lead Duel". YouTube. Rock Master Festival. 23 October 2025. Retrieved 23 October 2025.
  14. ^ a b c d e f g h "Rock Master 2025: KO Boulder". YouTube. Rock Master Festival. 20 October 2025. Retrieved 20 October 2025.

Bibliography

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